Starfish, Camels and 40 Thieves

A dow is a boat carved out of a tree that can seat five people - kind of like a row boat but not. Stability is questionable but it's pretty neat. Instead of oars, our guides used sticks to push us through the shallow waters full of sea urchins. It took about 20 minutes to reach the spot that the locals have deemed Starfish Village during low tide. Three mzungus hopped out and followed small Ali around. He picked up one, two, three starfish in a matter of minutes. They were bright red and blue and yellow and all different sizes. The underside of the starfish has hundreds of tentacles that automatically pull inside the shell when it is picked up - kind of like a turtle. We all went around and gathering about a hundred of mostly five legged creatures. We stacked them, wore them as hats, stuck them on our shoulders. We tried to write "Hi Mom" with starfish but they wandered off quicker than you would think. The locals have decided that they would leave the starfish in their natural habitat and share this with visitors rather than removing them and selling them as souvenirs. Oh- they also made makeshift necklaces with the critters for photos only. Very creative.

Our afternoon was spent at Diani Beach. We rode camels up and down the coast line. These animals are pretty huge and when they either go up or down, its quite a ride. They were very friendly and didn't smell as bad as I thought they would. I guess I was a little surprised that camels were hanging out at the ocean but eventually nothing is a big deal here and I just go with it.

Forty Thieves is a restaurant on the water that has the waves as its front porch with people body surfing right up to the picnic tables. The name comes from the story of Ali Barbour killing forty thieves single handedly as they were stealing from house after after. There is also a neighboring restaurant called Ali Barbour that's located in a cave with hundreds of candles and more of that fine dining, romantic eating kind of gig. We wanted simple. Forty Thieves was perfect. The World Cup was on and we got to see a bit of that.

There are a lot of Muslims on the coast so we saw quite a few women in full black burkas. Even though it is "winter" here it is warm and I wondered what material their outfits were made of. A lot of the African women wore amazingly colorful printed skirts and matching wraps. There were yellows and blues and reds and pinks and purples - every color of the rainbow walked down streets. They were strikingly beautiful against the rest of the streets which are dirt brown with garbage strewn along the sides. They carry bags of potatoes or jugs of water on their heads and stand tall and proud. I have no idea how they do the sacks of potatoes - they are so lumpy.

The overnight train headed back to Nairobi left four and a half hours late because the train ahead of us had a "capsizement". I don't know where this word comes from but it could be a cross between capsize and something else. It seems as though this is no big deal either since when we asked one of the kenyan travelers he said "no worries. 80-90 percent of the trains are good." So glad we didn't experience any of the fires, dead elephants or derailments that have happened in the past.

When we finally arrived back at Flying Kites, we were greeted by the kids with huge hugs and screams. I was thrilled to learn that Ruth had been staying here. She ran up to me and we rolled around on the ground and screamed together. We are both so happy she is here. I don't know for how long but for the time being she has a bed and a new school uniform. That feels so good.

Peace out...
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Sand Island Resorts, Tiwi Beach

The overnight train from Nairobi to Mombasa is just like out of an Agatha Christie movie - not that I have ever really watched one but I can only imagine its the same. This is the only train in Kenya and I think it was built following WWII as a method to transport goods from the port of Mombasa to the center of the country. Six of us climbed aboard and settled into our first class, $36/night sleeping quarters. The dinner bell rang promptly at 7:15 and the restaurant car was dressed in white linens and white place settings. The wait staff wore black and white. The food was upgraded rice and lentils with the addition of either chicken or beef. It was about the same as "home" just a nicer presentation and more jerking to and fro while trying to shovel into your mouth. The toilets were just holes in the floor so you could see the tracks flying by while aiming. At night, we stuck our heads out the windows and watched nothing after nothing go by for a while. The moon was almost full and the stars jumped from the sky. Every so often there was a stray person standing in a field. I couldn't begin to understand what they were doing.

The morning breakfast bell rang at 630 and we had the standard eggs and toast with the addition of baked beans and sausage. Watching the scenery as we got closer to our destination, it was obvious that we were leaving rural areas and headed to more urban settings. We passed a dump that looked like it was straight out of Slum Dog Millionaire. There were people standing on top of it and huts that had sprouted from the mounds. Kids picked through the piles and in a moment we were gone.

By 930 we were in Mombasa ready to get to the beach. Our cottage is a self contained unit on the coast in Tiwi Beach which is about forty minutes south. We made our stop at the Nakumatt (which is the Kenyan version of WalMart) and shopped for food and necessities. The big goal was to get some cheese. Cheese, cheese, cheese please. We got a brick of cheddar and about 6 boxes of EZ Mac. I am traveling with 18-20 year olds. They crack me up - buy water? No we can boil it. I am like "are you kidding me? $2.00. Get the water.". We leave with umpteen bags and Phillip, our driver, heads us towards our new residence. The paradoxes don't hit me as they are happening.

Mombasa is an island. There are bridges every direction except south so we boarded the ferry and ended up in the next town - something that starts with a "M". It was a huge market town with vendor after vendor and the poverty and debris that has become "normal" to me. We eventually arrive at Sand Island Resort which consists of 8 cottages in the middle of nowhere. There is a great sense of hospitality in this country and the locals are always glad to have new blood arrive.

The house is about 100yds from the Indian Ocean. We are surrounded by palm trees, overgrown grass and coconut trees. The beach is deserted and the water is warm. There are tons of little beach craps and a couple of the guys we are traveling with are enjoying crabbing. Some locals came with bunches of fish that were caught within hours. We picked from about eight different kinds with different shapes, sizes and colors and had them fileted for dinner with too much rice and veggies.

This morning we spent time with Francis Foster, the 78 year old owner of this establishment. We stopped in the fruit "store" which is really like a garage attached to his house and then ended up staying for tea and his life story. It seems as though his family came to uganda in 1915 because of cotton. They were hunters and he has huge ivory tusks at the entrance to his office. They are bigger than the doors themselves. He told us about lion and elephant and rhino expeditions. Sadly during one of the lion chases, uncle robert's gun jammed as he was trying to unload his second shot and the mountain of an animal was bearing down on him. He ended up with a broken neck but was still speaking. He told the family to not create more hardship by getting sunstroke. Tough right? Robert eventually died in the bush and a shallow grave was dug for him and a cross made by one of his workers was placed as a header.

Francis's father had started a book about their adventures and Francis has finished it. There are pictures of the family standing atop elephants and multiple sets of tusks lining the cars and unusual family pets. There were baby gorillas and tame cheetahs and odd birds sitting next to teddy bears and terriers. Francis is alone and has never been married and was rather ecstatic with the opportunity to share his story with people. I think this is the same anywhere. Old people just want to be listened to. I guess everyone does but for someone who has most of their life behind them, there must be a need to pass on information or to at least feel validated that their life was meaningful.

Other recent points - the crabber boys found a place to go cliff jumping. It was probably fifty feet up and we all went. Geronimo!!!! This morning we found a mango half eaten on the counter. Our best guess - a fruit bat. Our cottage is not tightly constructed, ie. Walls don't meet roof so this is a distinct possibility. We are making plans to go camel racing tomorrow. I am SUCH a tourist!!!!

Hugs to all!!!

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Lake Naivasha, family outing at Hell's Gate, no water

Time is doing it's thing again and getting away from me.

This weekend a few of us made a quick trip to Lake Naivasha and went on a boat ride to see hippos. We also had the kids, matrons, all volunteers and all FKLA staff join us on sunday for a hike in the Hell's Gate National Park. There was a bus load of people and it was like a regular field trip. We weren't surprised when the bus was running a little late but it was startling to find that they were at the police station. Everything can typically be paid off but for some reason the expired insurance tag was a big deal on that particular morning. Whatever. They were delayed half an hour and let go on their way. We all did our little version on a hike which means about a half hour walk in dust with 16 kids ranging from 6 to 13 in a dust bowl checking out the zebras and warthogs along the way. By then kid's feet hurt and they were tired and you know the deal so there was a crew sent back to get the bus. But now we weren't all going to fit so big kids were thrown on top of the bus. And when I say big kids, I mean the college age ones and older. We haven't gotten to the point of strapping orphans to the rooftops yet but my guess is that some of them would love it. We did do another small hike through the lower gorge of Hell's Gate which is where angelina jolie filmed tomb raider II. It was like a mini Grand Canyon. There were hot water springs that amazed the kids. I was reminded of the geysers in saratoga and thought about how similar places are even when they are worlds apart.

Our trip home was uneventful but upon arrival we found that we didn't have water. Oops. It was just another one of those things that we get used to here. It's been a couple of days now and it seems acceptable. The hotel down the hill charges $6 for 12 hours and we have rotated turns in the shower. Doing dishes is interesting but I am reminded of how lucky we are here at "the center".

My friend Ruth is officially going to be a Flying Kites Day Scholar. She has been roaming around town for too long and she has found her way into the hearts of some of the founders and people that run this facility. It brought tears to my eyes yesterday as I walked her from class three to class one so that she can start to get her basic english and swahilli down. She smiles and laughs and waves with two hands. She is getting measured for a new uniform and has some new socks and shoes. She loves football and seems to be excited to be accepted here. I am not sure what emergency plan will be put in place to deal with her epilepsy but I am confident that the individuals here will handle the situation with care and the utmost concern.

We have two new boarders that arrived last week. During our recent medical and physical exams we found that one of them is HIV positive. The emotions around this are mixed. Initially it was concern over whether this child had been born with the disease or if there was abuse involved. After a trip to the hospital, there is some relief that no abuse has occurred. The way to look at this from a positive aspect is to be grateful this child arrived when it did. Treatment is available and the disease can be monitored. The alternative is difficult to imagine.

Flossie the cow will have her baby within the next three months. Matilda the cat has moved into her castle and has never had so much attention. She lucked out. I haven't heard much about the rabbits lately so I am assuming they are still alive and we haven't eaten them yet. Josie the dog is hanging in there and hasn't eaten Matilda but there are definitely some side bets going on this one.

There are numerous projects that I want to help with for this organization. Below is a list that I would love to have help with-
1- not all the boarders here have sponsors. Really important.
2- our new school is close to done. The building has been built for $60,000. It has four classrooms and will be the new learning center for seventy children. These kids deserve this. Unfortunately, we need approximately $10,000 to finish the inside. We will reuse existing furniture but need to finish the electrical and other interior details.
3- The Adventure Challenge team is currently mid stream on their hike up Mt. Kilimanjaro. This is the first time this event has been done for FKLA and it promises to be a fantastic event. I am hoping to put together a team next year of 15-20 people that will participate. It's a two week trip that includes a visit to the children's home and them a personal goal to be completed. The fund raising goal is $5000 per person and as far as I am concerned this is a cheap adventure vacation with a meaningful purpose. What's better?
4- We are looking at other non-profits to assist with our Oasis program in regards to renovating other orphanages in the city of Nairobi. The goal is to give these facilities access to information in a group format. It's a bit overwhelming but something to work at.

Dream Big Dreams. Good stuff. Looking for help. So much more to follow.

Lentils and rice has become my favorite dish. The scale says I have dropped some pounds but I don't want to trust it. Clothes are loose because washing/drying them is semi-optional. Who knows? We'll see when I get home. One more reason to visit Flying Kites Kenya- weight loss program.

Peace out.
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Njabini celebrates The Day of The African Child

At 5:30am the sky looked a bit ominous. "Please don't rain. Please don't rain", was the chant. Batches of eggs and loaves of toast were made for the boatloads of people that were strewn throughout the house. One by one they arrived in the kitchen and the tasks for the day were dispensed.
Take a motorbike to the site to decorate.
Make sure the generator has arrived.
Mobilize people in town.
Pick up more chairs.
Get the tents set up.
Unload the bananas.
Set up the speakers.
Make sure the laurie had arrived.
Gather everyone at the KCB Bank.
Decorate the vehicle to lead the procession.
Brian was on top of his game and has this amazing way of communicating and getting everything done. Toby had been on Good Morning Kenya style a couple of times. Radio ads had been running. Fliers had been distributed at churches and the local schools were involved in the poetry contest. The 2012 Presidential Candidate had been invited. We had no idea what this would turn in to. Fingers were double crossed. We were just hoping for a good turn out.

By 7:00am volunteers were arriving at initial meeting point. It was said that Kenyans are not an early morning people but it wasn't true on this day. School children were in their uniforms and I assumed they were headed to school (yes- secondary school is open on saturday and the kids spend the day cleaning.) The shops were closed but some folks were milling around town and a few motorbikes were buzzing about. And bit by bit they started showing up. One school group at a time. The radio station that would be broadcasting the event. The TV crew. More people. The motorcade of motorbikes. And it grew. As the parade made its way to the Caltex Petrol station, it was clear that this was going to be bigger than expected. There were lots of schools all there - actually the schools had been closed for this event. Buses had brought in the National Choir Champions to participate. Students were in their uniforms and the different colors of blue, green, orange made a brilliant patchwork. Along the 2 mile-ish stretch to the new school, it continued to grow. Traffic came to a screeching halt. We added more and more and more people along the way. It became a sea of people. The town was having a party. Best guess to date is 4000 people.

As we rounded a corner during our trek, the new school shone bright on a hill in the distance. It is two stories and has been painted white with large windows throughout. There was a trail of people making its way to the site. 500 t-shirts had been handed out along the way so the spots of people turned to red, green, black and white - the colors of the African flag. Tall pine trees framed the scene and a babbling brook ran in front of the school. A few small houses with rusted metal roofs surround the school. Landscaping had just been finished with a beautiful stone walkway and newly planted trees and shrubs. It was a new construction site that is making an impression in rural Kenya.

The event itself was packed with speakers and clowns and musicians and children. All the presenters were on the roof of our two story building with nothing even close to a railing surrounding it. When the Kenyan pop-star finally took the stage, the skies opened up and it started to rain. It had this Woodstock "feel" to it. Dancing in the rain, surrounded by children, not understanding any of what was being said and being one of the only mzungas in a huge crowd of Africans - it was a trip. I had moments of fear thinking "if this turns into a riot, what do we do?". I am pretty sure there wasn't much of a plan for that. Especially when two fireworks were set off and people thought they were guns and started to run. YIKES! Luckily, It quickly settled back to the festivities but it was scary for a few minutes. The goal was to have a fun filled day with the focus being on education and human rights and that is exactly what happened. The winners of the poetry contests presented their works with much enthusiasm and gusto. They displayed no fear delivering their message in front of thousands, even as the rain came down. And then Jimmie Gait was on stage and the entire lawn was on its feet singing Haratiti - or something like that. It was a great opportunity to make up the words as I sang along - literally. I got the dance moves down and that seemed to please all the kids around me. I think they were a bit surprised that a white person would actually dance with them. I was thrilled to hold their hand or wink at them or just be part of this event. It was magical.

At the end of the day, it seems like this was something that will make a difference to the children here. It will change the perception of white people. It will show that we care about the community and the children specifically. It will show that people are willing to invest in education and trying to help improve the lives of children around the world. It shows that they are important. It makes me smile and warms my heart. I am so glad I had the opportunity to be part of such an event.

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Transcending...

I was horrified to think that The Terminal Hotel in Nairobi was the place I would be staying five weeks ago. Last week, I was grateful for the place, dirty mosquito nets, hideous bed covers, a few ginormous bugs and construction next to my head. Dirt, cow dung, saliva, snot, cabbage, bunk beds, porridge, damp clothes and beans have all become "normal". Surprisingly, it doesn't take that long to assimilate into a culture.

Rafting the Nile was an experience of a lifetime. My body has taken a beating and has the bruises to prove it. The adventure started as soon as we stepped out of our door as the travel consisted of seven matatu rides, a couple of quick exits from these buses due to police checks ahead and licenses that seem to be optional, impending fines, jail time and removal of vehicles, some motorbike rides, a layover at a place with a real tub and shower and working hot water and I am sure some cows and chickens along the way. I am proud to say that I have still not paid for a ride on the back of a bicycle but I will add that the padded seats and fringe that adorns these seats on the back of a two wheel vehicle is rather impressive. Pedaling for a living would definitely keep the pounds off but man, it does not look easy.

So we ended up in Jinga, Uganda - the adventure capital of Africa - and it is magnificent. Dinner at The Black Lantern was gourmet (but then again as my friend Rosaleen says - after not eating for three days a cracker would taste good). We were perched along the banks of the longest river in the world, listening to the roar from the power of the water and witnessing monkeys swinging from the treetops. We had made it!!! We were really doing this. There was a dreamlike state attached to this trip which is tough to put into words. We didn't have reservations anywhere and totally floated through Nivasha and Nykuru and Eldorette and Bongoma and Malaba and across the border and met Violet and Gabriel, two new friends who helped us not get totally taken for all our money along the way. "We are all God's people" these strangers announced when we were vulnerable enough to tell them we didn't know what we were doing. And so yes, we arrived unscathed at The Nile.

We loaded into the bus and were given some preliminary instructions that consisted basically of "Use Sunscreen". Within an hour three boats were full of people and ours was dubbed Team Estrogen by Doug, the bad boy with elephant tattoo along his chest, British accent speaking, very tanned guide. Off we went with very little upper body strength but lots of enthusiasm. It was a 15km paddle on a warm, sunny day. The banks of the Nile have been changing and will continue to evolve - mostly because of man's involvement. Forty years ago the natural forest was cut down and pine trees, maize and other agriculture was planted on the short hills. There are no longer hippos or elephants and very few crocs in the Nile. Nile Perch (fish) were introduced some years ago and this has changed the makeup of the water as algae is a food source for perch. The water is now greenish rather than a clear blue. And the biggest change that is happening is that the new dam is being built. It is already half way across the river and should be completed in february 2011. This will flood another section of the area shortly. It sounds like there are another 6 dams planned for the Nile. These dams are generating power for Nairobi and probably some other towns/villages along the way. Yes, the area is developing and will continue to change. The Wild West of Africa will eventually transition to developed Africa. Time.

We negotiated wave pools and some falls and The Bad Place and The Other Place. I use the term "negotiated" loosely as lots of time was spent overboard and crashing through areas and bouncing up and down gasping for air. Adrenaline rush galore. Laughing so hard my stomach hurt. I bought the t-shirt and the CD and everything!!!

We arrived back home on Tuesday and have since become an extremely busy house. Nine volunteers, the employees of FKLA Rhode Island, professional photographer and friends of friends have arrived in preparation for tomorrow's event - Day Of the African Child. People are sharing beds, sleeping on sofas and the floor, bouncing off walls, tutoring bunches of kids, cleaning, decorating, doing windows, sorting t-shirt, making name tags...you name it. The place is in production mode. The event tomorrow will make national news and create an awareness about this organization and its message that will catapult it into it's next stage of growth. The new school will be unveiled and dedicated. The 2012 Presidential candidate will be here. Jimmie Gait - a superstar here- will be performing live on the roof of our building. Facepainters, musicians, and other entertainment will be floating through the crowd. It will be festivities galore!!! Wish us well!!

Dream Big Dreams!!!!!!!
B

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Good Morning from Daniel and I.

This is my buddy Daniel. He has the most adorable smile and the happiest outlook. He is outgoing and very smart. He loves to build paper airplanes and wants to know how things work. Daniel is one of the kids I tutor and he has recently written a book titled "King Daniel" where he told a story about himself and the animals he likes. This morning's treat was a baby chameleon that he brought to the office door. He loves to play tic-tac-toe and hangman. Any time these kids get to spend one on one with an adult is precious. I love his little dimples and the way he cuddles in at movie time and how he makes the sweetest cluck, cluck, cluck sound when he thinks something is "smart" or beautiful.

When he came in this morning to sweep the floor we sat and chatted for a bit and took this picture to send to America. I hugged him and asked him a rhetorical question "How am I ever going to leave all of you?" I don't know the answer and there is really no reason for me to ponder this since I still have a bunch of time left here. However, I am about halfway through and the time has flown by.

Mariam also came in this morning before school and showed me her writing that she did yesterday. It was a prayer to God. She thanked him for making trees because they provide shade for us to sit under and they have berries for animals to eat and they give us wood to make furniture. I couldn't help but smile.

I received a note from a friend on facebook who has a friend that was recently diagnosed with breast cancer. Chemo started yesterday and she was looking for advice on how to be a good support person. It was so easy to go back to that spot in my brain and come up with suggestions and remember all the wonderful, giving things people did for me - like grocery shopping, cleaning my house, taking me out to breakfast, cooking for me and just plain listening to me bitch. Coincidentally, yesterday I shared some pictures with my new friends from last year at this time when I was bald. I also got a weave yesterday - 6 hours in a bad chair with three women working on my head. I had no idea what these women went through to get their hair to do what it does. Talk about painful!!! It's just good to have hair and be able to play with it. Cancer seems like it was so long ago. Africa has reprogrammed my brain - exactly what I was after.

The lessons are wonderful...

This too shall pass

We are never alone

If we do the right thing, the right thing will happen

People are the same no matter where you go

The world is a small place

One person CAN make a difference

All the fears that I have had at home seem so meaningless here. I questioned myself about doing this by myself and now I know it could not have happened any other way.

Tomorrow Olivia (my surrogate daughter who is now embarrassed that I got a weave and doesn't really want to be seen with me but has admitted that I entertain her) and I are going to Uganda to go white water rafting on the Nile. I love the fact that we really don't know where we are staying or how to get there but that most likely it will all work out. Rock on!!!

Peace out!!

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More safari notes

Our driver, David, was absolutely fantastic. He had been educated at University of Nairobi and studied tourism, local wildlife, birds and botany. I would have believed everything he told me until he mentioned that dogs belong to the cat family because of their paws, of course. So take what you want and leave the rest. Maybe its just entertainment.

I'm going to ramble and just share my notes.

-during WWII Italians were POWs in Kenya. They built the road through the Great Rift Valley to Masai Mara in 1942. There is a beautiful small stone Catholic Church tucked away on this road that was built at that time as well. The contractors on this project were British women because it was felt that women were not corrupt.

-there are trees on the plains called Yellow Fever Acacia. They line the river beds. When italians were caught during the war, they were sent to the river. They soon caught yellow fever from the mosquitoes living there but believed it was because of the trees. Hence, the name.

- the Great Rift Valley was created when tectonic plates separated and the ground fell. These plates continue to move and the valley is growing larger. There are mountains that are growing at the same time. I think the Aberdeeres are one of the ranges growing but I'm not sure.

- one of kenyas largest exports is flowers, roses specifically.

-when Masai people get sick they are taken to the bush and tied up. A goat is killed and the person is smeared in blood and left for overnight. The rope that is used to tie them up is very long so that the next morning when someone comes to check on the sick one they tug at the rope from far away. If there is resistance this is a good sign. The person has strength. So they are left for another twelve hours. If the sick person still gives resistance later that night then they will be brought back to the village. These are the lucky ones that have not been eaten by lions or other animals.

-Wildebeest must migrate with zebras because they have bad sight. One lion can kill 10 wildebeest at a time. It is believed that God made this animal with leftovers of others...
Head from the beast
Neck from the lion
Tail from the horse
Body from the buffalo
Tongue of a giraffe

-jackals are scavengers and are also called midwives. They will pull the baby out of a mother as it is giving birth and disappear with it. I think that it does this with lots of different animals.

-elephants live to 60 years old. Gestation period is two years. Females give birth in a group and any female can nurse any other females baby. Elephants have six sets of teeth. One comes in, then falls out. Second comes in then falls out. Same for third and fourth. When they get to this point they are older and start having a problem controlling their urine and struggle with masturbation. (Can you believe this??? Remember - maybe its just entertainment.) Anyway- the elephant's only predator is man so typically they will die of old age. When this happens the rest of the herd digs a hole and buries the deceased. The herd then mourns for three days before they leave the burial spot.

-giraffes have problems because of their lpng necks. They live to be anywhere between twenty and twenty five years old. They sleep and give birth standing up. If the baby isn't taken by a jackal or die from the long drop, then it should be fine. Giraffes can develop high blood pressure, their spots get darker as they get older and they are one of the only animals that can see color.

- lions are in heat for seven days straight. They copulate every fifteen minutes during this period and this is determined by the female. After the seven days, the pair stays together for three days to enjoy the honeymoon and then they separate. Male goes to the males and female goes to the females. After a month, the female goes someplace quiet to give birth so the male doesn't eat the cubs. When born, the babies have their eyes closed for ten days. After that they can start to go hunt but still remain with mom. Cubs nurse for up to eighteen months and the females will not mate during this time. (That's why the males don't want the cubs around - supposedly.)

- cheetahs are the fastest animal on ground. Accelerates up to 105 km/hr for only 200m.

- serengeti is a masai word that means endless plain.

-ostrich can run 45 km/hr and can rip things apart with its nails. They are dumb birds and believe that if they can't see you then you can't see it. So if it is being chased it will stick its head in the sand. Duh.

I think those are the highlights. If I remember more, I'll update you.

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