Masai Mara

The day started out leaving Camp Wildebeest and the city of Karen around 7. David, our driver from Ol' Moran Tented camps was very punctual which rarely happens. Olivia and I were the first to be picked up in the very safari green huge sized Land Rover. Our next stop was to pick up another group in Karen. We met the rest of our party - another six college students here doing volunteer work from Norway, Canada, Poland and the US. It's wonderful. I feel like I am part of that back packing across Europe gig that I never did in college. So now I have these new friends that are studying to be either teachers or pharmacists or sociologists telling me about the schools that they are building and the HIV mobile units they are working on or the women's health centers they are trying to develop. They talked about where they have been in Kenya and what they have done and so now I may be white water rafting down the Nile next weekend.

It took us about four hours to get to our new camp and along the way we learned about the Masai Mara tribe. If I haven't mentioned it before - I will now. There are 42 tribes in Africa. Within each of those tribes there are sub tribes so it gets very confusing. The tribes all speak different languages but the mother tongue is Swahilli. The Masai Mara is one of the smaller tribes but they are most famous because they have worked hard to keep their heritage in place. These people are nomadic herders but the government is now requiring that they stay in one place so the children can be educated. All Masai do not wear the traditional garb. There are typical townspeople here who are Masai and have become Westernized. But there are also rural villages about an hour out of town that are what you would expect to see in National Geographic with the hoops in the ears, the red blankets wrapping them and the multiple necklaces. They also all mostly have sticks in their hands to move the cows or goats.

As David drove us out into the middle of this place he talked about the culture. Part of this is the initiation ceremony that I have discussed before. Boys are gathered around the age of 13 to be circumcised. They can not flinch or they will be banned from their family. What I learned today is that this group of boys/men are then basically considered brothers. When they come back from the bush their goal is to find a wife. If one of these males gets married, the wife is basically the common property of that brotherhood. So, should the husband need to leave the area to gather a cow or something, any of those other men are able to go sleep with his wife. They are to leave their spear at the door as a sign that there is a man in the house. If the husband returns and sees a spear, he goes elsewhere until the appropriate time to return. I guess the children don't really know who their fathers are and somehow it still works.

There are a lot of other stories to go with this trip but I will save them for another time. We ended up at the camp and I was pleasantly surprised. We had lunch, rested a bit and went out for evening safari. As we drove into the park we saw a herd of impalas and another herd of wildebeest. The impalas looked like minature deer with prettier black and white markings on their backs. The wildebeest look just like buffalo except with that long face and some crazy horns and grey instead of brown. Ok- maybe they don't really look like buffalo but that's how big they are. After being in the park for about half an hour, it started to pour. All I could think was that we were going to have a washout and maybe tomorrow would be better. Oh well. But we kept driving. And off in the distance we saw these little black dots. I pointed them out and asked what they were. The kid in front of me said "bushes". Shit. I totally laughed it off. And we kept driving and driving and the rain let up and before you knew it we were pretty close to these "bushes" which happened to be a herd of water buffalo - probably over 200 of them. They were right in front of us and have been desensitized to land rovers. We scooted around for everyone to get pictures and continued driving a bit and then "HEY it's a lion" came out of someone's mouth. Before you knew it we were watching two male lions cross our paths. Their manes were huge and they were the regal creatures you think they would be. They strutted and moved with dignity amongst the cars that were radioing each other to alert of a big cat siting. As we watched them meander through the plain, David announced that the lions were hunting the water buffalo. He explained that there needed to be two males in order to take down one buffalo due to size differences and the fact that the herd of buffalo can attack a lion. So the cats seperated one buffalo from the pack and before you knew it we were watching a kill happen. We learned that the lions will first attack the testicles of their prey to immobilize them. Once their victim is down, they will then tear at the intestines. And this is exactly what we saw. The circle of life. We watched the feast for a bit and then a female lion was allowed to join. They will eat for two days on this buffalo. Then it will feed the vultures and the hyenas. We might be able to see some of this tomorrow.

And now I am in my army tent that is covered in a thatched room with a full tiled shower and bathroom attached. My belly is full from a fabulous meal and I have enjoyed some hot water. The crickets are chirping and there are some other strange noises that might be animals or birds. But it is downright amazing that I have had this day. I am so blessed.

Peace out.
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Scariest thing yet

Meet Furry. This is the mascot at Wildebeest camp. The name sounds so African, doesn't it? Don't you just think of a place out in the middle of a jungle or something like that? I did. Well, that's not the case. We are in an awesome tent that has its own bathroom with a stand up shower, flush toilets, and a sink as well as wonderful beds. There is a beautiful lush courtyard with very African type plants and lights decorating the space. However, this tranquil setting is located behind a steel door surrounded by rock walls about 200 yards away from the LibyaOil station. The gas station sits on a major road that's something like an expressway. So I am not listening to lions and tigers and bears. I hear some crickets, the people in the tent next to me and traffic. The good news - we had pizza and ice cream for dinner!!! And we found gummy bears and pringles to have as snacks. Woo hoo!!!!

The ride into Karen (the town we are in) was probably the most danger I have been in so far. Olivia asked a very good question of our driver, joseph.
"Are there speed limits here?"
We got an answer that didn't surprise me. "Nope."
The lines down the center of the road are optional, if they exist at all. And drivers don't have a problem passing on the shoulder and screaming at the top of their lungs. There were numerous times when matatus were headed straight toward us in our lane. Its like a game of chicken on a constant basis. And then just add in roundabouts and its disaster waiting to happen. As we were getting to camp, we were stuck in a "jam". What we saw was the end of a bumper car ralley with a matatu and a car just wrecked up and then all the other traffic beeping and yelling and trying to get to wherever they were going. People were getting out of their cars and it was pure mayhem. Joseph was part of it. In and out of the car. Yelling at this one, then that one and blah, blah, blah. All I could do was put my head down and chuckle, hoping against hope that we would get to camp wildebeest in one piece. And we did. The ride was treacherous but I kept thinking "Disney. Disney. Disney."

I don't know if I have mentioned this yet but we are having an event in June. It's the Day of the African Child. Brian has been planning this for a number of months and it promises to be a festive occassion. There is a poetry contest, a parade, food, facepainters, entertainers and it will all happen at the site of FKLA's new school. It is very exciting and I am so glad that I will be here for this. The school kids from Flying Kites are preparing a song and it will be performed that day. It's just like a school play or a lip sync contest - Africa style.

Every day I scroll through the pictures I have taken since I have been here. I have come to know fourteen kids. I am learning their stories and their histories and in spite of this I often forget how tough their lives have been. They are so well adjusted that I have a tough time comprehending that one of them was found in the forest and another had a mother that wanted to boil him and another was raped by her uncle. I just don't understand this. These kids just want to learn to speak english or grasp the concept of multiplication or play with an i-pod. So simple. And yet so difficult.

Earlier this week as I was riding into nairobi on a matatu, I experienced first hand some of the government corruption. There were policemen stationed along the road, kind of like an inspection check point. All matatus needed to stop and check in with the cops. And by the way, the passing fee was 50 shillings I think. And we must have been pulled over four or five times within a forty five minute drive. There are so many people with their hands out here - any way to make a buck. Extortion is not against the law. Reminder - the Wild West.

At the same time there is another group of people who gets it. There are a lot of teachers here working on building a foundation within the children. There are agencies involved with trying to get people tested for HIV. There are government officials trying to rid their communities of corruption. None of this changes over night. Its going to be a long road but it is very interesting to watch and be exposed to. We are so very fortunate in the USA and we must not take it for granted.

With that - toodles.

Bethany

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Beans, rice and lentils

There seem to be some things that are "Kenyan". The food. The tea. The roads. The transportation.

The food continues to be beans, rice, kale, cabbage, carrots, lentils, maize and potatoes. Everyday is a combination of some of the above. Its all pretty bland and salt and pepper help quite a bit. The fruit is wonderful - especially the pineapples. Bananas and mangos are also readily available, if you call a mile trek to the market "readily". For breakfast most mornings I have eggs and some pan toast. Today when I reached in the cupboard to grab a couple eggs, I let out a small yelp. One of them was furry. of course - chicken feathers. What else? I have also come to realize the secret to great scrambled eggs. It is WHOLE milk. Not skim or 2 percent. Here milk comes in boxes - like juice boxes, complete with the straw. I don't know what they do to it that makes it ok at room temperature but it works.

Kenyan tea is fantastic. It's a treat and this most certainly would be a great way to put on pounds if I wasn't hiking everyday. At the Gimwa the tea develops on film on the top of the cup. I think it has to do with the milk. When the matrons make it there is no film but I think that's because they use Flossie's milk and run it through a sieve as it is poured into the cup. Again - it's a treat - not chunky at all.

Speaking of our pets, we have recently acquired another four rabbits. The older boys are caring for them and we keep asking them what they will name them. The boys are not in a hurry to do this and I have a feeling it's because we ate one a few weeks ago. I think pets are transient in this world.

The roads are shared with cows, donkeys, an occasional stray dog and chickens for the most part. There is also a herd of children that develops after school lets out and I have been "lucky" enough to travel with this pack for the last few days. Some of the kids speak english but most don't. So we tried making a common grunt, hmmm, haaa language that lasted for a few days. It got old pretty quickly. Today I had the bright idea to use the time for spelling lessons. COW- point to the one next to us - C-O-W. Black Cow. B-L-A-C-K C-O-W. You get it. Colors. Animals. Parts of the body. Anything to keep them
occupied. Edutainment.

Transportation consists of mutatus, tulagas, motorbikes and bicycles. The tulagas are bigger than mutatus, more like a bus where people don't sit on each other. There are groups of motorbikes that are another form of public transport. The drivers have helmets but the passengers ride at their own risk. Whatever. And there is a bike shop here where you can actually rent a bike. Good luck. I'll walk and negotiate the ruts and mud on my two feet.

The children are wonderful and I really don't know how I got so lucky to find this place. I truly enjoy cuddling with the kids at movie time or teaching them how to make jewelry or construction paper books or taking pictures with them. They are loving, respectful and caring kids most of the time - there ARE fourteen of them remember. But all in all, I couldn't have asked for a better place to experience what Africa is like. I am learning so much about the culture, the issues and the possible solutions. It's just amazing.

Tomorrow we (Olivia - the 18 year old) and I leave for safari. Have I mentioned that I am the oldest one here? I am older than Phoebe, who they call mom and who has seven kids. I am OLD. When did that happen? I guess the alternative isn't a good option so I suppose I will just embrace it and one of these kids and just enjoy it for what it is.

Safari- ol' moran tented camp. Google it - its there. And the wildebeest camp is where we are staying tomorrow night. That's on line too. Check it out. It should be a hoot.

Hope all is well in America. Peace out.

B
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Great Day!!!

Yesterday I did my first home visit. Sarah, Olivia and I were invited to a family's home where the mom was sick with AIDS. The father was angry and wanted to throw the mother out of the house. We were with another community organization that helps in these situations. I had no idea what to expect. We met the mom at the neighbor's house. She was definitely ill and feeble. We followed her into her house and the men volunteers worked with the husband to calm him down and try to diffuse the situation. We were welcomed into the home which was constructed from tree timbers and the outside was covered in mud and cow dung. The inside was insulated with newspaper and cardboard. The floors were dirt. It was very tidy and folding chairs were taken out for us to sit on. As we watched the situation unfold, it was interesting to watch Sarah (27 yrs old) step right up to the plate and ask about the children, had the husband been tested?, had the kids been tested?, etc. Shortly thereafter she suggested that we do another home visit with our kids and donate to this family. I have no idea if these seven children (ages 5-18) will end up as orphans but it doesn't matter. They just needed some help.

And with that, I don't know if I have ever had a day as rewarding as today. The highlight was bringing a group of the Flying Kites kids to this family's home and watching them give clothes, toys and food to those that has less than them. The children lit up and were thrilled with new t-shirts and socks and some stuffed animals. All seven of the children disappeared behind a curtain and changed into their new clothes. They all came out and showed off their socks and sweat pants and practiced their jump roping skills. This exchange brought tears to my eyes.

On the way we had stopped at the general store. Our kids wanted to bring food. Our "coach" had suggested 2 bags of maize (130 shillings each), some cooking fat (100 shillings), 2 loaves of bread (50 shillings each), some porridge flour (100 shillings ??? Maybe) and we picked up some cakes for Flying Kites. I paid with a 1000 shillings and got change paid. 1000 shillings equals $13.00. The family would be able to use these supplies for probably a week. It was amazing. You would have thought we brought gold.

Today we also made a trek to the local swimming hole. The trek included down the road, over a fence, though a garden, attacked by a sheep, past a cow, through another fence, down another road, another garden and through the jungle where we were supposed to see monkeys. I think maybe we would see these mammals if we weren't a herd of screaming kids. Oh well- next time maybe. We arrived at the swimming hole with extra children in tow - which is typical. The kids stripped down to their swimming clothes and went running in. The water is about knee deep and is basically a stream and it works great for what we used it for. Kids skidded around on their butts and went rock hopping and tried their hands at skipping stones. What a fabulous Saturday afternoon!!!

This evening we celebrated one of our kid's birthdays. We had special cakes with a homemade chocolate drizzle over them and a great big candle sticking out of the middle of it. Not quite a Carvel ice cream cake but it was still special. Birthdays here are interesting. Most of these children pick what day they want it to be. Sarah is starting the process of doing birth registrations for the children. This entails getting either baptismal records, immunization records, death certificates of parents, and/or any additional information that is needed from the current guardian. Times fourteen. It is now a project with its own binder.

Some of the matrons and I were talking this morning about what their lives are like. In general the women work here. They bring home money that is used for the kids and it sounds like the general scenario is that the man works and uses his money on alcohol or other women. The alcoholism rate and abuse seem to be fairly common. It appears as though many women end up being the major breadwinner either within the marriage or as a single mom. These women started to ask me for help in regards to starting businesses. I asked what they would do and the first reaction was to raise sheep so they could sell the wool. I have seen numerous signs for microfinance companies here directed towards women. I have told one of them that I would go with them and try to help. At the same time I asked her what it would cost to start her own business. The answer? 40,000 shillings. 40 x $13. Hmmm...we'll see what happens.

All in all, a great day!

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I am no longer the newbie!!!

Meet Olivia!!! She is one of the new volunteers that arrived this weekend. Frannie and Vin have also landed at FKLA. College is out and people are starting to arrive. I am really happy to know that Vin is majoring in education. I have been substitute teaching and it's not a pretty site. Today I was supposed to teach social studies and science to class one (first grade). I opted for puzzles instead. It seemed so much easier to occupy fifteen six year olds that way.

Recently I was introduced to Ruth, an eleven year old from town. Sarah and I were walking into Njabini and at the bottom of the hill we found her standing with no shoes on in mud ankle deep staring out at the field. It was spitting rain and it was late morning on a week day. I was sad to find out that Ruth had epilepsy and had been married off at ten years old. She was later removed from that abusive relationship and put in the custody of another guardian. It appeared as though this guardian could not afford shoes for Ruth and because of that she was not allowed into school. It was heartbreaking to say the least. I toted Ruth to the market and bought her gum boots ($3.00), socks (50 cents) and bananas (15 cents). We went to the Gimwa (Njabini's version of a diner) and had Kenyan tea and mandazi (donuts). She didn't say a word the whole time. After a bit, she got up and left, most likely headed home.

I was changed by this experience. I couldn't help but think that there were numerous other children in the area that were living in close to the same circumstances. I wondered if I should go buy 100 pair of gum boots to hand out to kids but then wondered what I would do when the next hundred children came up and said "give me gum boots". These children know that much English. "Give Me". And I have learned to say "No. That's rude". Emotions start to get hardened. Almost like seeing the homeless people in the city. I see the poverty. I see how poor people are. And there are times that I wish I was reading a book instead of walking through it.

For the first two weeks I was here, I had this thought that I could change everything... do more fund raising and send books and clothes and start a new farming program and fix the HIV/AIDS issues and every other thing that I thought needed to be done. And then I realized that I really needed to keep it simple. I am still tutoring three children and I have decided that if I can help them with basic english skills, then this is enough.

Yesterday Olivia, Frannie and I were walking back to the house at about the same time as school was let out. This meant that we automatically became the Pied Pipers. We ended up with about fifty kids following us down the road. Most of them had very limited English but they just wanted to walk with us. Eventually we came up with our own language that consisted of grunts and he-haws and smiles and hand gestures and laughs. And Ruth was in the pack with her new gum boots on and a smile that went ear to ear. Even though we can't communicate, I know that we are friends.

There have been times when I have thought of cutting my trip short. And then I end up with one of "my" students stopping to chat with me about how much he enjoyed the "talking book" (leapfrog computer thing) this morning and I remember that he doesn't have parents or extended family to care for him. I remember that this is his home and this is where he is loved. I remember that I am here to be of service to him and the other children here. It seems as though I still have work to do.

Peace out.

P.S. I thought of shaving my head again but have opted for the long, scraggly hair under the hat look instead. I am SO looking forward to a cut and color at some point. AND a pedicure!!!
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Animals

Meet our newest addition - Flossie, the cow. A benefactor was kind enough to donate enough money to purchase two cows for Flying Kites. Every week, FKLA spends 4,000 shillings on milk. Flossie will pay for herself within a few months. The boys seem to like her quite a bit. I looked out the window this morning to find Flossie being walked by a gaggle of young men. I got quite a chuckle from that.

Later in the morning, we were sitting having tea, enjoying a relaxing saturday. Suddenly two boys bounced in announcing that they had seen a rabbit in the shamba (garden). I thought "Isn't that sweet? We are going to have another pet". Brian did a good job of suggesting that the boys make friends with the bunny and that they shouldn't capture him. Not that much later there was quite a commotion outside. Josie, the dog, was barking. There was a crew of kids all headed in one direction - yelling and totally excited about something. Of course, we decided that it was rabbit related. And we continued to drink our tea. Shortly thereafter we saw a group of boys walking past the window with the rabbit's head. Hmm. I guess that explains what was going on. It wasn't long before each kid walked in with either a foot or the tail or an eyeball. I think we are having rabbit for dinner tomorrow. Now I know why Sarah is a vegetarian.

I hope you are enjoying your weekend.

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WHAT AM I DOING?

I'm sitting in an old building that used to be a monestary on the top of a hill that only has a dirt road leading to it. The windows are open and it looks like there is a good storm coming in - just in time to walk 30 kids down the treacherous mud slide of a hill so they can get a ride home. The laundry is hanging on the line and most likely I will leave them there since I don't think I did a good job of rinsing them. After my knuckles started to sting from grounding out the dirt, I just gave up and ran the tap water through everything. Whatever. They are just going to get nasty again.

I am tutoring three children every morning. I probably said this already but I am basically just winging it. I feel horrible when we are reading a book about a picnic and hot dogs and juice and watermelon on the beach and a swim in the ocean and I start to think that these kids might not experience these joys. Then again, maybe they will. I just can't know.

But the reality is that these children come from families and homes that I still have a tough time imagining. I noticed today that one of the boys' fingers was broken at the top knuckle. I asked what happened. He doesn't talk so much and I didn't really get an answer. Maybe I don't want to know.

Two days ago we had a visitor, a brother of one of our boarders. He is emotionally disabled and lives very far away. We think it probably took him a couple of hours to get here on his own. He stayed for dinner and then we needed to send him back. He had someone come to walk home with him.

This morning the school children were singing a song about being orphans and who would take care of them. They talked about abortion, being abandoned and dying of deadly diseases. Again, it was heart wrenching.

I can sit with these kids and make paper airplanes or greeting cards or play crazy 8s or any other ordinary type thing and forget that some of them could have been left on the side of the road.

I met yesterday with the director of an HIV/AIDS awareness organization. I am going to try and help finish doing some research and writing a grant that would continue education practices that have been started in the area.

There is so much that is beyond my comfort zone. And I guess that's ok. It certainly gives perspective to things.

Tomorrow's a different day.
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The Wild West

Day 7- one full week I have been here and if it keeps up the way it has, my goal of dropping 15 is not unfeasible. However, tea and coffee are all about whole milk and lots of real sugar. The request has already gone out for Splenda.

Ok- the Wild West. I went into town on Saturday for a committee meeting regarding the Day of the African Child. Brian has organized local businessmen, some NGO workers and others attached to the government. It was just like an other event planning - Who is in charge of the food? Who will do decorations? (I wonder if there is helium here for balloons). The program? Speakers? Publicity? Same thing - but different.

As we sat at the Gimwa restaurant, I looked out the window at the dusty dirt roads and the three little kids that had their noses pressed up against the window staring at the Mazunga (this is the real word for white person. I think I had it wrong earlier in the week and used Mutatu - which is bus). There were donkey drawn carriages. There were people hanging out at the bars. And the kids just wanted to touch fingers through the glass. They keep it so real.

The goal for this event is to create an awareness of human rights and education. The total budget will most likely be less than $2000 and we are hoping that the entire community joins in for the event. There are upwards of 7 primary schools in this village and probably 5 secondary schools. Estimated attendance is 2000 children plus their families. This place will be a zoo. SO FUN!!

After the meeting, I stood on the side of the road with a few of our kids waiting for the rest of our group. Lots of kids came and surrounded me. Novelty. One in particular was very bold. He knew the words "give me" and then other words such as bag, watch and money. In no way do I want to condone begging. That is not why I am here. I sternly said "No, that's rude" and continued to chat with the other children. These kids know what they are doing. They are smart and want more. I can't blame them for asking but it seems like a fine line between asking for help and asking for a handout. And what is the difference really?

The infastructure in Kenya is poor. The roads through the country are not always passable because of the rain/mud. There are some major roads that are paved and the Chinese are the ones that are building these. I have not quite come to understand why but I have two stories. One is that the chinese want the resources here. The other is that they were low bid. I have asked what resources and am told there is gold, silver and oil in parts of this country. I haven't researched it so take it for what it's worth.

Because of the violence in nairobi in 2008 I believe some major companies have pulled out of the area or are unwilling to come here. There is a constitutional reform that has yet to be voted on. I am not so sure of what this will entail but I am pretty sure that some of it has to do with government reform. It sounds as though a lot of people in positions of power have their own best interest in mind. This reform is the culmunation of twenty years of work. Corporations will need to be transparent - which some people are not too happy about. There are provisions in the new constitution to allow women to have an abortion if they are going to die. It sounds as though the Christian Right of America is funnelling tons of money to vote NO because of this issue. It's very interesting to be in a country that is not settled - hence the wild west analogy.

The village that I am in has amazing soil. It is dark brown and very fertile. Cabbage, potatoes and maize are the crops that seem to grow best. Because of the lack of infastructure there can be times when there is an abundance of these crops that go to waste. People down the road can be hungry and food is rotting not that far away.

There are no government services which means that trash is an issue. In town everything just gets thrown on the side of the road. There are piles of garbage everywhere. Here we burn our refuse. There is a pit in the back of the house that all garbage goes to. Charles, one of our drivers, takes care to start a fire when the pile gets too big. There is not a lot that gets thrown out here. It mostly gets reused one way or another. Brian wanted to do a time capsule with the kids. He explained to them that they would all pick items that were of interest and put them in a locked box and bury them for ten years. They all looked at him and didn't understand. "Why would you put something of value in the ground?". Good question right?

I had someone ask about what happens to these kids once they graduate from school. Are there programs in effect to help them go to university either here or abroad? I have been having this conversation with Sarah, the director here. At this point, FKLA does not have a program set up for after high school. Their goal is to give them exemplary education and prepare them for life afterwards. The hope is to give them as many options as possible. Currently, this has not been developed within this group. However, there is a sponsorship program that allows someone to support a child for $2000/year while they are here. This covers food, clothing, housing and education. www.flyingkitesglobal.org
(The education fee is a whole other topic to discuss at another time.) (Fyi- matrons' children come to school for free here.)

The longer I am here, the more I don't understand. It seems so logical to be doing what is happening at FKLA. I continue to ask "isn't there anyone else doing this?" And the answer keeps coming back "there are other orphanages but typically it is about meeting basic needs." There can be money funneled into programs (like the TV commercials) but it doesn't mean that the money gets to the kids. There are no guarantees. At FKLA there are people on the ground working towards improving the lives of these children and hopefully the community. This is a true grass roots program and I consider myself very fortunate to have found this. I don't know about the rest of Africa but these people are really doing everything they can to make a difference.

The motives are right. The people are genuine. This is a humbling experience.

Pics attached are from my walk back from town this morning.

Peace out.

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The children...

I know that I haven't spent a ton of time talking about the children here. I think there has been an adjusting period. The other night as I was laying on the wood floor watching movies in the dark, one of the girls just reached out and held my hand. My heart melted. She just wanted to hold hands. This particular girl is about eleven years old and as sweet as a button. She is beautiful and soft spoken and a smart student. And we were in this cocoon we call Flying Kites where things aren't that bad, holding hands.

I am told that in kenya, there are some government rules about adoption. The way I understand it, one of the parents basically needs to give permission to allow their child to be adopted. In a country with millions of orphans, these guidelines leave a lot to be desired - if I am understanding them correctly.

I am not going to name the children within this blog as a matter of privacy. Since this forum is public, I would not want them at some point in time to google themselves and find stories from their childhood. It just seems disrespectful. However, I will tell you that all of them are well mannered and respectful. They are just like any other kids that fight over a toy that one has and the other doesn't. They play with discarded car tires in the yard and roll them back and forth for hours. An old bike tire makes a great hula hoop. I had a six year old teach me how to hand wash my clothes. Later, she stood in the doorway after I had finished cleaning out a storage room and was mopping the floor and shook her head disapprovingly at me. Once I became willing to listen to her, I found her way was better. Go figure.

This evening I passed out donations to each of the kids that had come from America. I took each child one by one and told them that someone had been thinking of them and had put together a care package just for them. We read letters, and tried on clothes and took pictures. I heard one of the boys say that he wanted to keep the tags that were on his outfit. These children had never had a NEW anything. There is one boy walking around with an Old Navy baseball cap with the tag still on it. Minnie Pearl - eat your heart out!

Because of the way things are here, I made some decisions on the fly. The caretaker of this property lives on the grounds with his two children. They play with FKLA children all the time and are like part of the gang. We borrowed a piece here, a piece there, some coloring books and crayons and put together new outfits for these children as well. It just wouldn't have been fair to do it any other way.

And then the matrons also have children who go without. One of these women is 40 years old, has seven children and is never home. Her mother watches the children while she works here. I can't imagine what it must be like to be away from your kids and watch others be given so much when yours don't receive anything. So- we packed bags for the matrons kids. They got new underwear and clothes and stuffed animals. There are still bags and boxes full of items that we are going to keep and distibute as needed.

Sarah and Brian are trying very hard to make FKLA a community based organization. They have taken our kids and done community service projects with them such as going to visit othe families who are worse off and bringing them food or supplies. I have a feeling that the clothes that are being replaced will find a new home and will be greatly appreciated as well.

When I walk into town, there are kids with piles of wood strapped to their backs. These children have hiked up this hill and gone into the woods to fetch firewood. They sell it for a dollar a bundle.

I spent time organizing all the school supplies that were sent and on friday we had a mini meeting in the office with the teachers. I showed them where the flash cards were and the art supplies and the coloring books. There is so much more organizing to do but the teachers were thrilled with the new supplies and were going to use them that day. Books are a tough subject. They are heavy and so it is difficult to get them here for freight purposes. FKLA has 140 boxes of books in rhode island that we are trying to figure out how to get here. Its expensive. It's a work in progress so we will see.

I have seen people walking around in town with CVS polo shirts on. I couldn't understand how that would be. Well- Goodwill or organizations like that will sell off items that won't work in their markets. Somehow, they find their way to places like Njabini and are for sale in the shops here. This is what poverty is like. Shipping new items in is kind of a double edged sword. First off, if it gets to the designated final destination, that's a bonus. It sounds like when items come through the postal service, its basically public property. If there is something of interest in the package, it can be stolen very easily. That's the first thing. If the package does make it to the correct post office, there will be a tax on the item that the recipient pays. Everyone here has their hand out. The good news is that even if all of this does happen and an item gets to a person in need, there are other people complaining that by sending in product it is taking away manufacturing jobs here. Ha! I am so glad I didn't know all of this when I started this. Ignorance is bliss. It seems that personally delivering items is the best, albeit it very cumbersome, answer.

My battery is going to die!!!

Peace out my friends. Thank you for helping change the world.

Tomorrow I will tell you about the wild west.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

IMG00065-20100508-0132.jpg

Have you ever seen such beautiful calla lilies?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

wednesday

The stars here are spectacular. They twinkle and shine and are not like I see at home. I really think they dance. At first I thought it was a plane but after watching and watching and enjoying the moment, I came to realize they weren't moving. They were just brillant pinpoints in the sky. The smell of a fire was on and there were dogs barking in the background. It was very serene and peaceful. I felt content

.Today I broke through a bunch of fears.I left the flying kites compound with brian. We walked down the dirt road into Njabini. On monday I assumed that I would never do this. It was all too scary. I was the only white person. I didn't know the language. I didn't understand the culture. The town didn't really seem like a town when I drove through on monday. I was very judgemental and didn't know how I would fit in. And then this morning I woke up with the word "human-ness" in my brain. It was about the human condition, the person, not the stuff. So needless to say, I knew today would be the day.

But first, I had to prepare. I took a shower. This is not unlike washing the dishes yesterday. One of the last volunteers left this cool bag called a sun shower. We don't use it outside but we do boil water to add to this probably 2 gallon bag that we hang over our head and use gravity to feed the nozzle. Let's see...saturday to wednesday..5 days. Not horrible. I don't think I smelled THAT bad but I didn't ask anyone standing next to me.After the shower, I dressed in clean clothes and my gum boots and off we went. The dirt road has parts that are total mud and its picking the best path possible. We passed cow fields and chickens and donkeys. Actually there are ONLY farm animals here. I am told that if we hike the mountain that is out our front door (elephant mountain) we need a guard with us in case we run into wildlife but so far the only thing people have seen has been a monkey. Anyway- off we went to Njabini. School had just let out so all the children were walking back up the hill to their homes. Brian knows the word for hello and how are you in swahili. I did too, for about as long as the walk took. I know that the word for Good is Missouri. I have no idea if that is how it is spelled but that's how it sounds.As we got closer to town, I knew I was doing the right thing. I had to go get acclimated to this world if I plan on being here until July.

And then there we were, smack dab in the middle of what I would ordinariy call a shantytown but what I will now call a village. There were stores and a butcher and a kodak photo sshop and a couple of hotels and bars and a fresh produce market. There were also donkeys and goats running around and the drivers are crazy here. The pedestrians do not have the right of way. So, brian and I ran into Peter, someone that brian is working with on his Magnet Effect Program. They discussed some details about an upcoming poetry contest and the posters that are needed for that. Peter also introduced us to a group of women called "the shining stars". They are working on humanitarian projects in the community. We also ran into anthony, the driver that picked me up at the airport. I actually recognized a face in njabini---"hey!!!! There's anthony!!" As if we were long lost friends. Brian and anthony made plans for friday and it was business as usual. At the market we bought some bananas, 26 shillings for 7 bananas. I don't know what it means yet but brian didn't barter and I asked why. He said he hasn't figured out howmuch produce costs yet, so he isn't sure of best prices. Its a whole game. I'm not there yet. Maybe next week. We also went to the drug store to find eye drops which didn't go so well. It all sounds kind of ordinary right? It was so far from ordinary, I have no idea what it was really like. Surreal. That's the word. Everyone was friendly. Everyone made eye contact. I am told I don't need to be scared but that's not so simple. But we did it. And maybe again this weekend.

I am in the process of trying to figure out how much 2000 t-shirts would cost for the upcoming Day of the African Child event. I will be tasked with tutoring three of the children on friday. I got together my "lesson plan" and a book and flash cards since I have no idea how to do this. I am told, it will be very easy- just help the students learn basic english skills. Ok- basic I can do.

I have so much to tell but this blackberry screen is annoying and the generator is now off. Before I go, just a few things. Every kenyan I have met has a cell phone. There is a company called m-pesa that is like a trac phone. But check this out- you add money to it like a checking account or debitcard. People pay their bills with their phone. It is huge here. Who knew?

We have company tonight at fkla. Peter and tammia (volunteers that were on safari) have returned for a night. They are from ct and ri. Wonderful people. And vivienne is here tonight as well. She is a kenyan volunteer that came back for one night. She will be going to America in august to go to medical school in wisconsin. I will be introducing her to some of my friends there.There is so, so, so much more. I am doing my best to share the highlights and keep this of interest.Oh--fyi- the donations will be given to the kids this weekend. There were some rules that were broken and that's the deal. Now, they have to wait. Its all the same. Just different.Peace out.

day 2

Here at the equator sun goes down around 7pm. I really thought it would be lighter longer here but its not. I miss the longer, warmer days at home a bit. Its been chilly all day and it is rainy season so in the afternnon there are showers. We saw a rainbow today.

My first chore of the day was to do the dishes in the volunteer area. This is a feat unto itself. First th water needs to be boiled which means that the stove needs to be turned on which means that the gas tank needs to be turned on. You get it from there.

I was also tasked with organizing all the stuff that was donated. Joyce (one of the matrons) helped me with this project. I never would have thought twice but white anything is not really good here. There is mud and dirt and brown water so its just not practical. We sorted boxes and bags and got one outfit per child ready for them. We will give these to them tomorrow night.

I spent time with the kids doing puzzles, walking around the complex and teaching them Miss Mary Mack, Mack, Mack...all dressed in black, black, black. We kicked around the soccer ball and hung out in the sitting room.

The volunteers are wonderful. None of these people are getting paid. They are developing this program and working out of the goodness of their hearts. So- Hannah is a volunteer that has been here for 6 monthes. She is preparing to leave on friday. Currently she is looking for an international program manager for a NGO (non governmental organization) in washington, DC. If any of you are intersted here is her blog http://hannahinafrica.wordpress.com
Hannah has been setting up the Oasis program for Flying Kites. This will end up being a group of 20 orphanages in the Nairobi area that will work towards developing consortieum for these organizations. Power in numbers premise. This program will be continued by one of the next employees that is coming here. I have not read her entire blog but will in time. I have been very impressed with hannah's strength and commitment to FKLA. If anyome can hook her up with an interview in DC that would be really cool.

Brian is another volunteer/employee that is taking on the Magnet Effect Program. His blog is the twosaiingships one listed on the left tool bar. He has been here for six weeks and will be here for six months. He is assuring me that I will become comfortable here within a few days. He has even told me that we can walk into Njabini for fresh produce some day this week. I don't know if I totally believe him but I will trust the process.

I was under the impression that there was female circumcision (sp?) Going on here. When I spoe with joyce and phoebe (mom) today about this, I was told that it has not happenned in this area for 30 years or so. I was glad to hear this. Kikuyu is the tribe that lives here. There are 43 tribes in kenya. They have diffirent dialects and traditions. I am not sure how women are treated elsewhere but I am happy to say that the women I have met so far are strong, dedicated, and full of faith and hope.


Matilda is the movie of the night. Thank you to whoever sent it...again.

And as a side note - the matrons wanted to know what church I belong to that was so generous. I kind of chuckled...the church of furniture world, albany, ny.

One last point...before I left I was strugling to get all my blog stuff working. I added a googlegroup that would allow automatic emails to go to each person that I added so you would know when I added a post. Unfortunately, whenever someone responds everyone else on the list receives this. There is a place on www.googlegroups.com/flyingkites that will allow you to remove yourself or change how often you get emails. Sorry if I didn't ask before adding your name. I just needed to feel connected when I did this....probably in the middle of a panic attack.

I might take a shower with this cool sun shower bag that can hold hot water tomorrow. It might be nice. Last one was saturday. I might change my clothes too. No guarantee.

And thanks barb for the solar charger. Everyone is thrilled with it.

Peace out!!

Rice and beans from Njabini...

Bethany

arrival...

It's 1:15pm on monday and I am at flying kites. I can't begin to explain what I have seen or heard in the last 4 hours. Upon landing in nairobi, I needed to figure out exchanging money in order to pay the help to get 12 bags out of the baggage claim. The airport is very small, smaller than albany. It took 3 porters. The lady at customs was scary to me. She asked if everything was new or used. For some reason I lied and said used. She knew I lied and made me open the boxes. There were tags on things. They wanted to charge me tax on everything I was bringing in. The person who was meeting me was a bit late so I was negotiating with this woman. Oh yeah- I was the only white person around. And I had yellow smiley faces on these boxes. No one was smiling.

After a bit, I rounded up the porters and trekked outside, waiting for my ride. There was a ton of drivers with signs waiting for arrivals. I was getting nervous- I don't even know how to dial kenya from my phone. "Bethany" I finally heard. Woo hoo!!!!!! My driver had arrived. There are all sorts of other details but not important right now.

The ride was an hour and a half through Kenya. I passed the largest shantytown in africa - somewhere between d00k and 1.5M in a square mile. Nairobi is a city but not like we know it. The towns are not like we know it. Its a different world but when I got to FKLA the kids sang to me, gave me a tour, introduced me to the matrons and showed me their school. They have not seen all the boxes. We kept them hidden. Staff thinks it best to give out a little at a time.

Hannah and Ann just grabbed me by the hand and walked me around. James is a warm old soul. Isaac, Benson, Mary...oh my goodness...its so much. I am "auntie" bethany. I have been welcomed. I am tired. I am glad to be horizontal. Peace out my friends.

Heathrow Airport Terminal 3

Am hanging out at the terminal for the day attached to my blackberry which seems surprisingly odd here. No on else is on the phone or texting. Maybe I should take the hint.

I just saw the news about Times Square and the smoking car. Scary. Everyone here stopped as that quip came up on the TV. It really is a small world. Everything is connected.

I think my flip flops give away that I am american. I'm trying to just watch and pay attention and take in this melting pot. FUN!

Have a great day!!

JFK

My friend Tina drove me to NY today. We got to catch up and chat and spend time together. She is family to me and absolutely one of my dearest friends. She is an inspiration to me. She is cut and dry and really funny. She doesn't take shit from people. And she's really organized which is great for me when we travel together because I tend to be the scatterbrain. Thank God for Tina!!

And at the end of our four hour ride, she pulled up to the departure lane, helped unload the van and kicked me to the curb. She had other people to go visit. I just love that about her. Keeping everything right sized.


The porter wasn't happy with me. TWELVE bags. And then the virgin Atlantic computer would only process eleven bags... Ugh!! Don't worry. I didn't have to ditch anything. But the porter had to load, unload, reload all these smiley face boxes. He didn't smile much. Even when I dished out the cash, no teeth. Oh well.

I got through the lax security bit and sat to get my last bit of american food for a while.... If you call chinese panda american food. And as I sat and ate, I started to get scared. Uh oh.. Now what? I was dropped off by myself going to someplace really far away where I didn't know a soul. Yikes! What about if my cell baTtery dies or I lose my phone? What about if I get lost in london? What about if no one meets me in nairobi? What about if all the stuff for the kids gets lost? What if? What if? What if? And then out of the blue a woman sat at the table with me. There was an open table right next to us and I was a little surprised. I had been making a conscious effort to not talk to strangers and here one just plopped down in front of me. I just couldn't resist.

"Are you travelling someplace fun today?" I asked

She didn't understand what I said.

I spoke a little louder. "Are you going someplace fun today?"

"What?" She asked with a British accent

"Fun. Someplace fun F-U-N".

"Oh - yes. Kenya."
Of course. Let the journey begin.

Gotta run. Boarding is starting. Leaving on a jet plane...don't know when I'll be back again.

Rock ok